THE TAVERN
SURIN TRIP 2009
In February 2009, my friend Dave, Maew and I decided to take a five day trip to the Province of Surin, located in the Northeast of Thailand adjacent to the Cambodian border. We elected to travel to this isolated area for two reasons: it was Maew's home town and I wanted to visit the Cambodian border crossing that I had bicycled across three years prior.
General Surin Information Website: Click Below
Normally I travel by bus, but since I was not sure of the area and assumed that we would be in remote areas away from standard public transportation, a rental car seemed the logical choice. Driving in Thailand is not for the faint of heart. Vehicles without lights, motorcycles traveling the wrong way, speed demons with their pedals to the metal, and trucks traveling at half the posted speed limit are just a few of the hazards requiring total mental concentration.
Since Maew said her house was not quite finished, we loaded the car with tent, sleeping bags and pillows in case they were needed. Inasmuch as I had extensive experience with the Thai propensity to bend the truth to suit the circumstance, I was not sure what to expect.
Other than a few close calls on the freeway, the five plus hour trip to the province went without incident. We arrived at the small town of Prasat just before dusk and turned south for the final 20 kilometer leg of the journey. Maew's "village" would be more aptly called a handfull of homes, shacks, and half finished structures. As we pulled up in front of her Aunt's house, I told Maew that I wanted to see her house to figure out the sleeping arrangements. A block further down stood the "house" if it could be called that. What greeted my eyes was four posts and a roof: no walls, no floor, no electric or running water. The lot did not even have a flat space to pitch a tent! Needless say, Dave and I were in complete agreement that a hotel was needed. We dropped Maew off at her Aunts and we drove north back to Prasat. Not seeing anything that looked like a hotel, we continued on the next 30 kilometers to the city of Surin.
I had been to Surin three years prior while cycling and figured to stop at The Farang Connection, run by Martin, to ask for advice on lodging. This bar has been in business for a while and is an ideal place to get your bearings. Located next to the bus terminal, they have Internet, food, drinks and even a rental car service if you want to drive. Click on the link below for further information.
There was some kind of convention in town so we were lucky to get a room at the Thong Tarin hotel. After checking in, Dave and I went out to explore some of the local nightlife which seemed to consist mostly of Karaoke bars......not my cup of tea. So after a few beers we retired early so we could get an early start the following day.
Following an early breakfast at The Farang Connection, we headed back south to Prasat. Martin had told us about a quaint bungalow style inn located in Prasat. The Leelawadee Gardens is foreign run and well maintained complete with pool and airconditioned rooms. Although they were full when we tried to check in, we did spend several pleasant evenings at the bar drinking with the owner and several expatriate regulars. Next trip we will make reservations beforehand at the Leelawadee.
The hotel that we ended up staying in called the Thongpaeka Hotel, also in Prasat, was quite acceptable as well. Complete with pool, restaurant, and modern rooms, the rates were reasonable as well.
Our itinerary was up for grabs, so we decided to do the Isaan party thing. Basicly this entails going to the local market and buying lots of food and drink. After delivering the trunkfull of goods, the word will spread there is party to be had. Due to the grinding poverty of the area, this could be the highlight of the month. A typical party for forty or fifty people will set you back about 100 to 150 dollars. The women prepare the food and once the party starts, people filter in and out of the yard until everything is consumed. Usually you end up with more than a few people who have had more alcohol than they should, and they inevitably want to be your best friend! A few of the more colorful characters are pictured below.
The following day we decided to visit the Cambodian border. Since leaving Thailand would have voided our visas, we could not actually cross in Cambodia. Skirting the border in our rental car and with the aid of a map, we ended up on an epic four hour journey on some of the worst roads in Thailand. We did ultimately find the border crossing that I was looking for. It was called Sa Ngam and has not changed one bit in three years!
That evening Dave and I were having a few beers at the Leelawadee when we hear a guy say, " I would know that voice anywhere." Both of us look at the guy and don't recognize him. After a few inquiries, it turns out that Matthew had worked with David ten years prior in Australia. What are the odds of meeting someone by chance in the most rural of places in Thailand? Small world indeed. The next day we went to the local dam/lake for some relaxation and then went to see Matthew's house which was being renovated, which coincidentally was only about 6 km from Maew's home.
Our last day in Surin was spent at the Elephant Village located more than a few kilometers north of the city of Surin. The more I see elephants, the more amazing I find them. Intelligent and highly expressive, it is amazing how a multi-ton animal can be so cute. The baby elephants are cuddly beyond description. If you have the time, the trip is worth it.
The drive back to Bangkok was fine until we arrived to the city. Getting lost three times was frustrating enough and took us almost as much time as the entire trip from Surin! Arriving back at The Tavern at 11 PM, a cold beer was exactly was needed. A fun trip, but it was good to be home!
When in Bangkok, don't forget to visit THE TAVERN